When the weather is cold, my taste in wines gravitates instinctively to reds — deeply hued, earthy, fruity, and spicy reds. I’m not saying it warms me from the inside out, but in the same way a chilled rosé is the perfect complement to a warm summer day on your favorite restaurant’s patio, the right red wine shakes off the chill during the winter months. And with Valentine’s Day upon us, the perfect red wine pairs perfectly with a dozen long-stemmed roses.
With this is mind, following is a handful of favorite red wines to enjoy by a warm fire or celebrating a special someone with a Valentine’s Day dinner. All are available for purchase locally (prices are approximate) and with an emphasis on supporting ·è¿ÍÖ±²¥ Fe’s area wine shops, which helps ensure we continue to have access to world-class wines in northern New Mexico.
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2021 Parallele 45 ($15)
This classic wine comes from France’s Côtes du Rhône region in the south. It is named for the latitude (45th parallel) that traverses the vineyards where the grapes in this blend — syrah and
grenache — are grown. First offered in 1950, its staying power is a testament to the producer’s ability to deliver a consistent, quality bottling at a very reasonable price. I got reacquainted with this wine at Kokoman Fine Wines & Liquor in Pojoaque during one of the popular store’s weekly Saturday tastings — and I’d forgotten just how pleasant this wine is, especially in the grips of winter.
Parallele 45 has aromas of black pepper and brambles like raspberries and boysenberries. The wine is light- to medium-bodied and garnet colored; the fruits are dominant, but a dense and chewy mouthfeel make this red elegant and exceedingly pleasing. Note: Don’t hesitate to serve this wine slightly chilled.
Cline Family Cellars 2022 Ancient Vines Mourvèdre ($17)
I fell in love with Cline’s wines through numerous Happy Hours at the now-shuttered DC Coast restaurant in downtown Washington, D.C., where the eatery served Cline’s Cashmere red blend by the glass. Let’s call it my gateway wine, yet my continual exploration of their many offerings in the years since has only deepened my love affair with both Cline and how the winery celebrates the varietal grape mourvèdre.
The maker’s Ancient Vines Mourvèdre is made from two of Cline’s most historic vineyards in Contra Costa County, California, one of the oldest regions for winemaking in the state. These are 100-year-old, gnarly vines growing close to the ground that produce a small amount of mighty, concentrated grapes. The result is a rich, spiced, and bold red wine with notes of earthiness and stewed dark berries. If you’ve never tried mourvèdre, let this wine be your introduction, served in a large-bowled glass to swirl and indulge. When you are ready to take it up a notch, Cline’s 2022 Small Berry Mourvèdre ($64) is an elevated rendition of this grape crafted from its very best vines that are bordered by eucalyptus trees, imparting an entirely unique and stellar profile.
Bodegas Peique 2022 MencÃa ($15)
MencÃa has had a bit of a tarnished reputation and might not be a commonly known grape in the U.S. A native grape of Portugal, it is now mostly grown in Spain, where a new generation of winemakers have recognized the potential of old mencÃa vines to create complex, fruit-forward wines that drink exceptionally well when young. This is the case with Bodegas Peique 2022 MencÃa in the Bierzo region of northwestern Spain, where the grape reigns supreme.
On the nose, hints of licorice and earth add a depth to what might seem a lighter red, given the wine’s color. Flavors of spice, eucalyptus, and mint are immediate on the palate, followed by a long and velvety finish that is all ripe black fruits. The tannins here are tight, and you should consider decanting this wine about 30 minutes prior to sipping — you’ll be rewarded for the extra effort.
Monte Antico Toscana 2019 ($14)
While you can spend significantly more on a delicious bottle of Italian red wine from Tuscany, why should you when you can land the Monte Antico Toscana for less than $15? Local wine shop (and restaurant) Arroyo Vino had this wine as part of its two-pack special in January, and I’m glad I was urged to give it a try.
The blend of 85% sangiovese, 10% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% merlot manifests as a beautifully deep and opaque purple in the glass with aromas of leather, anise, and dark fruits. On the palate, blackberry crumble, pie crust, and floral notes accompany firm tannins and bright acidity. Stay out of the cold, order-in a pizza, and pour this delicious wine — trust me, it will become your go-to pizza- and pasta-night wine.
Locally you might find either the 2019 or 2020 vintage of the Monte Antico Toscana. But have no fear: There is great consistency from vintage to vintage.
D.H Lescombes Limited Release Hervé ($60 at Hervé Wine Bar)
If you’re inclined to support local winemakers here in New Mexico (and you should), you have several fine choices. But the best New Mexican red wine I ever tasted was the 2015 mourvèdre from D.H. Lescombes. Last year, the family-run winery celebrated its 40th year of releasing wines and have bistros and tasting rooms across the state, including the Hervé Wine Bar in ·è¿ÍÖ±²¥ Fe, just off the Plaza on San Francisco Street.
On a recent visit, the by-the-glass offerings were abundant, and I settled into tasting a half dozen of their reds on a snowy afternoon. The Limited Release Hervé, named after the founder, is a big, bold, and juicy blend of four different grape varietals — 35% syrah, 25% petite syrah, 25% merlot, and 15% mourvèdre. With spice, leather, and oak on the nose, the spice is pleasantly full throttle on the palate, along with cherry compote and baked blueberry cobbler.
You can purchase bottles (to take home) directly from the ·è¿ÍÖ±²¥ Fe wine bar.
Charles Krug 2021 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (about $37)
People frequently ask me which cabernet from Napa is my favorite. For me, it’s an impossible question to answer, given the volume, uniqueness, and diversity of gorgeous cabs that come from Napa Valley. But what I can say is I have one Napa cab that is my “house red†and that is Charles Krug’s Napa Valley Cabernet. Vintage after vintage, this wine punches way above its cost and makes that unique Napa cabernet magic accessible at a price that doesn’t break the bank.
Aromas of cherry, chocolate, and oak rise from the glass of this medium-bodied, ruby-hued wine. Flavors of baked blackberries, earth, and spice lead to a long and fruit-forward finish. This is a cabernet to be enjoyed now, and you might even consider decanting it to allow its youthfulness to open up a bit, which also adds a bit of decadence to your enjoyment. â—€
Bill Smith has been professionally engaged in policy and philanthropy for nearly three decades, and more recently, as a food, wine, and travel writer. He resides in ·è¿ÍÖ±²¥ Fe and is the wine feature writer for the luxury lifestyle monthly, Polo Lifestyles.
